GRADE: Moderate to demanding
TIME : 6 days
DISTANCE: 30 miles/48km
ALTITUDE GAIN: 7400ft/2256m
ALTITUDE LOSS: 6271ft/1912m
STATUS: Open
This 6-day trek is wonderful. It comprises beautiful scenery, good views of snow-capped Himalayan peaks, a monastery high up in the mountains, and a visit to a Dzong. There are campsites next to the monastery, and also near some beautiful lakes. There are several possible campsites besides the ones listed in the route description.
After the initial climb, the route is not vey hard and, if needed, there is access down to a road from several spots. Part of the route follows the original mule track that linked the Thimphu and Paro valleys, and eventually connected Bhutan to the Indian border.
The trek begins at high altitude. Plan some extra days in Paro or Thimphu to acclimatize.
DAY 1
Start from Paro. Go by bus to the National Museum (8036ft/2450m) to campsite below Jelled Dzong (11,270ft/3436m)
TIME: 4 – 5 hr
DISTANCE: 5miles/8km
ALTITUDE GAIN: 3503ft/1068m
ALTITUDE LOSS: 269ft/82m
At the museum, you will meet your trekking staff, the horsemen and pack animals. At the start of the trek the staff always take some time to get organized, so don’t be in a rush to arrive early at the camp. Your luggage will be brought by the crew behind you.
Today’s trek climbs non-stop for over 1065m before dropping down over 80m to camp. This is a major effort at this altitude, so take your time and drink as much as possible. The trail winds its way steeply through blue pine forest and around several farmhouses and fenced apple orchards, and crosses a dusty road mainly used during the apple harvest season. The area is called Taschhugang. Along the way, Kuenga Lhakhang (8660ft/2640m) is passed. Damchena (9510ft/2900m) marks the end of the dusty road, near a big stone house.
After 1 hr or so of steady climbing there will be nice views of the Paro valley. Visible above is Jele Dzomg (Jili dzong), located on top of the ridge and surprisingly nearby. At 9825ft/2995m, after 1.5-2 hr trekking, the route passes a long Mani wall in a big flat grassy field- a possible campsite (Damche Gom) but with poor water sources. Near here the route joins the one coming in from Dambji on the east side of the Doo chhu at 7544ft/2300m. Climb steadily up now through blue pine, fir and bamboo. At around 3235m a gigantic hemlock tree, over 600 years old, overshadows the trail.
The trail continues steeply up through the forest. Just before reaching a small pass (11,540ft/3518m) below the dzong, the route opens up a bit, and there may be some yaks with their herders and dogs. Tonight’s small campsite (11,270ft/3436m) is a little way down from the pass. It can be cold here because of the wind, which often picks up in the afternoon. You may be able to hear the monks playing instruments in the Lhakhang (temple) during one of their prayer sessions.
DAY 2
Campsite below Jele Dzong , 270ft/3436m) to Tshokam (12,995ft/3962m)
TIME: 4-5 hrs
DISTANCE: 5.5miles/9km
ALTITUDE GAIN: 1726ft/526m
ALTITUDE LOSS: 0ft/0m
From the camp, climb back to the ridge and the small pass leading to the Dzong (11,790ft/3595m). The valley to the east of Jele Dzong is Gidakom or Bemang Rong Chhu (higher up, Bimelang Chhu). At the village of Gida is a hospital that traditionally treated leprosy and TB. About half way down this valley a forestry road winds up and gets quite close to the Dzong. At the end of the valley are several lakes.
Leaving the Dzong walk north for about 10 minutes on the ridge with a beautiful view before disappearing into the forest, which looks rather bleak as a result of damage by bark beetles. Cross over to the easterly side of the ridge at 12,135ft/3700m. Go up and around a small peak, a steep 100m ascent to an altitude of 12, 300ft/3750m. Looking back, you see a part of the Paro valley and the large Doo Chhu side valley. To the south, the Dagala range is visible (another trekking area). After 3 hrs pass a possible campsite (Dorjo Lakha or Jangchu Lakha, 12,365ft/3770m). After another one hr climb, the better campsite, Tshokam (12,995ft/3962m), is reached just after a small saddle.
JElE DZONG
The Dzong is worth a visit. It is a very impressive fort, surrounded by many prayer flags at even more impressive and exposed location. It has been renovated recently. It takes a battering from the elements (note the iron cables holding down the roof). The views are great, looking towards Paro far below, while in the distance stand snowy peaks on the border with Tibet, including Jumolhari (23,995ft/7315m) in the centre.
A few elderly monks and student monks live here. Do not be surprised if you are not allowed to visit the Lhakhang, but do remove your shoes if you are allowed into the chapel. In the lhakhang, which is quite big and has some huge statues, a piece of paper explains the history of the site in both Dzongkha and English.
Leave a small donation behind. You might be offered some holy water. Get the holy water with your left hand. Sip a little and pour the rest over your head. You may be offered dice on the plate; throw the dice and the lama will say if you have thrown a lucky number – nine is the best. There may be monks playing bone horns, accompanying the prayers.
DAY 3
Tshokam (12,995ft/3962m) to Jimilang Tsho (12,726ft/3880m)
TIME: 6hr
DISTANCE: 6miles/10km
ALTITUDE GAIN: 700FT/213m (or147FT/450m if opting for the
Higher trial at the end)
ALTITUDE LOSS: 965ft/295m
The ridge walk followed by the trekkers is about 2hr longer than the pack animals’ route, and more spectacular. Weather permitting; there are several views of snowy peaks to the north and a grand view down into the valleys.
Once again, we proceed in a northerly direction most of the day. Looking east, tonight’s camp, as well as some of tomorrow’s route, is visible.
Climb gently for several hours to reach a small pass at about 13,350ft/4070m. The trial has loose stones, so watch your step. After a short descent, there is a small campsite at Labanah, ‘between two passes’. Continue along the ridge to the next small pass (13,380ft/4080m), with a view north to Jhomolhari (23,995ft/7315m). Down below, several monasteries are visible at the far end of the valley: Paro Dop Gensakha Gompa, Sharadango Gompa farther north, and Ragyo Chiwokha Gompa above that. Keep climbing slowly on the ridge. On the opposite side there is a view of jimilang Thso.
At 13,695ft/415m, a small stone shelter next to a small lake is reached, with another view to Jhomolhari (a nice possible campsite). There is many small lakes here, shelters for a yak herders, and yak trials. Two possible trials lead to the large sacred lake Jimiling Tsho (Bimelang Tsho). One is higher up and not always easy to find, and get to the lake from the east. The other descends at first, then climbs again and reaches the lake from the west. The higher trial is a more challenging loop and can be overgrown. Yet it is recommended. The area above the lake to the east is very remote.
At the east of the lake is a good campsite (12,726ft/3880m). The lake has plenty of trout. Locals are often seen standing in the cold water up to their knees, using bamboo spears to catch trouts at the outlet of the lake. Ask your trekking company if they can arrange a fishing permit. There is a chorten (stupa) at the lake.
DAY 4
Jimilang Tsho (12,726ft/3880m) to Simkotra Tso (13,415ft/4090m)
TIME: 3 – 4hr
DISTANCE: 4.5miles/7km
ALTITUDE GAIN/LOSS: several small ups and downs
Walk around the lake to its far (western) end. There is a split in the trail. One branch is that used by pack animals, the other soon starts to climb up above the lake. There is some steep climbing through bushes, but later good views will open up. An exposed cliff trial leads to small saddle (13,450ft/4100m). From here, you can see the next lake below (Janye Tsho or Jane Tsho; 12975ft/3956m; 1.5-2hr).
From the lake a wide stone path between rhododendron bushes traverses a valley with a small lake below. There are lakes just above, Dungtsho Tsho and Dungtsho Sama , regarded as male and female lakes. The local people believe that the second (female) lake has a powerful spirit, who gets easily provoked if anything dirty gets near the lake. If this happens, bad weather will ensue, which only can be stopped by endless prayers.
Climb up a bridge and look for a cairn. After 1 hr a viewing point at 13,610ft/4150m is reached, with a lake below, Simkotra Tsho (13,415ft/ 4090m), which has some stone ruins nearby. This is tonight’s campsite.
DAY 5
Simkotra Tsho (13,415ft/4090m) to Phajoding (12,103ft/3690m) or Thimphu radio tower (9245ft/2818m)
TIME: 5hr
DISTANCE: 6mile/10km
ALTITUDE GAIN: 755ft/230m to the viewing point
ALTITUDE LOSS: 1330ft/405m to Phajoding (or 4190ft/1277m to
Radio tower)
The trail is good, but there are 7 minor climbs to small passes before you finally look down to Phajoding Monastery and Thimphu (the capital city of Bhutan). Monks frequently pass here on their way to meditate at the sacred lake – Jimilang Tsho.
When climbing up pass number 5, Thujedraj-Ganker Punsum becomes visible. If you are lucky with the weather, the rest of the Bhutan Himalayas can be seen. From the pass, climb 250m up to a small rocky outlook (14,170ft/4320m) on the left side. It is covered with prayers flags, and there are also traces of fire on top. This place was formerly used for sky burials, and has an incredible view over the whole of the Bhutan’s Himalayas.
After this excursion, descend a little, then climb to pass number 6 (13515ft/4120m). The final pass is Dochu La (13,430ft/4095m), and is very windy. There is a good view over the last part of the trekking: a steep descent to Phajoding Monastery and finally Thimphu.
Camping at Phajoding (12,100ft/3690m) is definitely worthwhile.
PHAJODING MONASTERY
Togden Pajo, a Tibetan yogi looking for a place for meditation, founded the site in the 13th century. Most of the buildings were constructed by the 9th Je Khenpo, Shakya Rinchen, in the first half of the 18th century. The 16th Je Khenpo was also involved in some of the buildings, and the king’s secretary has donated money for one of the more recent temples, built in honour of Guru Padma Sambava. Phajoding is not just one complex. Several buildings spread out over the mountainside include lhakhangs/gompas, monk quarters, numerous meditation centres, and even a guesthouse. The meditation centres may have a branch of a juniper tree outside, indicating that do not want to be disturbed. There is also a sacred cave with big stalactites during the colder month of the year. Phajoding is one of the Monasteries visited by Thimphu people for special pujas, which provide funds for the monasteries. Try to see the meditation centre which hangs on the side of cliff at 12,955ft/3950m.
DAY 6
Phajoding (12,103ft/2818m) to radio tower (9245ft/2818m) or Mothithang (8395ft/2560m)
TIME: 2-3hr
DISTANCE: 2.5miles/4km
ALTITUDE GAIN: 0FT/0m
ALTITUDE LOSS: 2860FT/872M
From Phajoding monastery there are three different trails to Thimphu. One stays high and climbs to a pass, Puma La (12,170ft/3710m). From Puma La a trail leads down to the Mothithang youth centre.
The other two trails start with the same steep descent. At 10,965ft/3343m you arrive at a big split in the trail. Straight down in a steep route past to the queen’s compound and the wooden buildings of the royal staff camp, continuing on to the Mothithang youth centre. This trail descends 250m more than the alternate route.
The other route goes left at the split and follows a gentle trail descending slowly through thick forest until Chhokhortse Gompa (9870ft/3010m) in a clearing. Just before the gompa there is a model of a hot stone bath in the ground. A steep, 200m descent leads to the radio tower, past hundreds of prayer flags put up by people from Thimphu. This is the transmission tower for Bhutan’s only TV and radio station, BBS. From here, drive down to Thimphu, passing the Thimphu Zoo, where some takins can be seen.After this drive back to hotel,overnight and dinner at the hotel.
Next day in the morning drive back to Paro airport and safe flight back home!
GRADE: Moderate to demanding
TIME : 6 days
DISTANCE: 30 miles/48km
ALTITUDE GAIN: 7400ft/2256m
ALTITUDE LOSS: 6271ft/1912m
STATUS: Open
This 6-day trek is wonderful. It comprises beautiful scenery, good views of snow-capped Himalayan peaks, a monastery high up in the mountains, and a visit to a Dzong. There are campsites next to the monastery, and also near some beautiful lakes. There are several possible campsites besides the ones listed in the route description.
After the initial climb, the route is not vey hard and, if needed, there is access down to a road from several spots. Part of the route follows the original mule track that linked the Thimphu and Paro valleys, and eventually connected Bhutan to the Indian border.
The trek begins at high altitude. Plan some extra days in Paro or Thimphu to acclimatize.
DAY 1
Start from Paro. Go by bus to the National Museum (8036ft/2450m) to campsite below Jelled Dzong (11,270ft/3436m)
TIME: 4 – 5 hr
DISTANCE: 5miles/8km
ALTITUDE GAIN: 3503ft/1068m
ALTITUDE LOSS: 269ft/82m
At the museum, you will meet your trekking staff, the horsemen and pack animals. At the start of the trek the staff always take some time to get organized, so don’t be in a rush to arrive early at the camp. Your luggage will be brought by the crew behind you.
Today’s trek climbs non-stop for over 1065m before dropping down over 80m to camp. This is a major effort at this altitude, so take your time and drink as much as possible. The trail winds its way steeply through blue pine forest and around several farmhouses and fenced apple orchards, and crosses a dusty road mainly used during the apple harvest season. The area is called Taschhugang. Along the way, Kuenga Lhakhang (8660ft/2640m) is passed. Damchena (9510ft/2900m) marks the end of the dusty road, near a big stone house.
After 1 hr or so of steady climbing there will be nice views of the Paro valley. Visible above is Jele Dzomg (Jili dzong), located on top of the ridge and surprisingly nearby. At 9825ft/2995m, after 1.5-2 hr trekking, the route passes a long Mani wall in a big flat grassy field- a possible campsite (Damche Gom) but with poor water sources. Near here the route joins the one coming in from Dambji on the east side of the Doo chhu at 7544ft/2300m. Climb steadily up now through blue pine, fir and bamboo. At around 3235m a gigantic hemlock tree, over 600 years old, overshadows the trail.
The trail continues steeply up through the forest. Just before reaching a small pass (11,540ft/3518m) below the dzong, the route opens up a bit, and there may be some yaks with their herders and dogs. Tonight’s small campsite (11,270ft/3436m) is a little way down from the pass. It can be cold here because of the wind, which often picks up in the afternoon. You may be able to hear the monks playing instruments in the Lhakhang (temple) during one of their prayer sessions.
DAY 2
Campsite below Jele Dzong , 270ft/3436m) to Tshokam (12,995ft/3962m)
TIME: 4-5 hrs
DISTANCE: 5.5miles/9km
ALTITUDE GAIN: 1726ft/526m
ALTITUDE LOSS: 0ft/0m
From the camp, climb back to the ridge and the small pass leading to the Dzong (11,790ft/3595m). The valley to the east of Jele Dzong is Gidakom or Bemang Rong Chhu (higher up, Bimelang Chhu). At the village of Gida is a hospital that traditionally treated leprosy and TB. About half way down this valley a forestry road winds up and gets quite close to the Dzong. At the end of the valley are several lakes.
Leaving the Dzong walk north for about 10 minutes on the ridge with a beautiful view before disappearing into the forest, which looks rather bleak as a result of damage by bark beetles. Cross over to the easterly side of the ridge at 12,135ft/3700m. Go up and around a small peak, a steep 100m ascent to an altitude of 12, 300ft/3750m. Looking back, you see a part of the Paro valley and the large Doo Chhu side valley. To the south, the Dagala range is visible (another trekking area). After 3 hrs pass a possible campsite (Dorjo Lakha or Jangchu Lakha, 12,365ft/3770m). After another one hr climb, the better campsite, Tshokam (12,995ft/3962m), is reached just after a small saddle.
JElE DZONG
The Dzong is worth a visit. It is a very impressive fort, surrounded by many prayer flags at even more impressive and exposed location. It has been renovated recently. It takes a battering from the elements (note the iron cables holding down the roof). The views are great, looking towards Paro far below, while in the distance stand snowy peaks on the border with Tibet, including Jumolhari (23,995ft/7315m) in the centre.
A few elderly monks and student monks live here. Do not be surprised if you are not allowed to visit the Lhakhang, but do remove your shoes if you are allowed into the chapel. In the lhakhang, which is quite big and has some huge statues, a piece of paper explains the history of the site in both Dzongkha and English.
Leave a small donation behind. You might be offered some holy water. Get the holy water with your left hand. Sip a little and pour the rest over your head. You may be offered dice on the plate; throw the dice and the lama will say if you have thrown a lucky number – nine is the best. There may be monks playing bone horns, accompanying the prayers.
DAY 3
Tshokam (12,995ft/3962m) to Jimilang Tsho (12,726ft/3880m)
TIME: 6hr
DISTANCE: 6miles/10km
ALTITUDE GAIN: 700FT/213m (or147FT/450m if opting for the
Higher trial at the end)
ALTITUDE LOSS: 965ft/295m
The ridge walk followed by the trekkers is about 2hr longer than the pack animals’ route, and more spectacular. Weather permitting; there are several views of snowy peaks to the north and a grand view down into the valleys.
Once again, we proceed in a northerly direction most of the day. Looking east, tonight’s camp, as well as some of tomorrow’s route, is visible.
Climb gently for several hours to reach a small pass at about 13,350ft/4070m. The trial has loose stones, so watch your step. After a short descent, there is a small campsite at Labanah, ‘between two passes’. Continue along the ridge to the next small pass (13,380ft/4080m), with a view north to Jhomolhari (23,995ft/7315m). Down below, several monasteries are visible at the far end of the valley: Paro Dop Gensakha Gompa, Sharadango Gompa farther north, and Ragyo Chiwokha Gompa above that. Keep climbing slowly on the ridge. On the opposite side there is a view of jimilang Thso.
At 13,695ft/415m, a small stone shelter next to a small lake is reached, with another view to Jhomolhari (a nice possible campsite). There is many small lakes here, shelters for a yak herders, and yak trials. Two possible trials lead to the large sacred lake Jimiling Tsho (Bimelang Tsho). One is higher up and not always easy to find, and get to the lake from the east. The other descends at first, then climbs again and reaches the lake from the west. The higher trial is a more challenging loop and can be overgrown. Yet it is recommended. The area above the lake to the east is very remote.
At the east of the lake is a good campsite (12,726ft/3880m). The lake has plenty of trout. Locals are often seen standing in the cold water up to their knees, using bamboo spears to catch trouts at the outlet of the lake. Ask your trekking company if they can arrange a fishing permit. There is a chorten (stupa) at the lake.
DAY 4
Jimilang Tsho (12,726ft/3880m) to Simkotra Tso (13,415ft/4090m)
TIME: 3 – 4hr
DISTANCE: 4.5miles/7km
ALTITUDE GAIN/LOSS: several small ups and downs
Walk around the lake to its far (western) end. There is a split in the trail. One branch is that used by pack animals, the other soon starts to climb up above the lake. There is some steep climbing through bushes, but later good views will open up. An exposed cliff trial leads to small saddle (13,450ft/4100m). From here, you can see the next lake below (Janye Tsho or Jane Tsho; 12975ft/3956m; 1.5-2hr).
From the lake a wide stone path between rhododendron bushes traverses a valley with a small lake below. There are lakes just above, Dungtsho Tsho and Dungtsho Sama , regarded as male and female lakes. The local people believe that the second (female) lake has a powerful spirit, who gets easily provoked if anything dirty gets near the lake. If this happens, bad weather will ensue, which only can be stopped by endless prayers.
Climb up a bridge and look for a cairn. After 1 hr a viewing point at 13,610ft/4150m is reached, with a lake below, Simkotra Tsho (13,415ft/ 4090m), which has some stone ruins nearby. This is tonight’s campsite.
DAY 5
Simkotra Tsho (13,415ft/4090m) to Phajoding (12,103ft/3690m) or Thimphu radio tower (9245ft/2818m)
TIME: 5hr
DISTANCE: 6mile/10km
ALTITUDE GAIN: 755ft/230m to the viewing point
ALTITUDE LOSS: 1330ft/405m to Phajoding (or 4190ft/1277m to
Radio tower)
The trail is good, but there are 7 minor climbs to small passes before you finally look down to Phajoding Monastery and Thimphu (the capital city of Bhutan). Monks frequently pass here on their way to meditate at the sacred lake – Jimilang Tsho.
When climbing up pass number 5, Thujedraj-Ganker Punsum becomes visible. If you are lucky with the weather, the rest of the Bhutan Himalayas can be seen. From the pass, climb 250m up to a small rocky outlook (14,170ft/4320m) on the left side. It is covered with prayers flags, and there are also traces of fire on top. This place was formerly used for sky burials, and has an incredible view over the whole of the Bhutan’s Himalayas.
After this excursion, descend a little, then climb to pass number 6 (13515ft/4120m). The final pass is Dochu La (13,430ft/4095m), and is very windy. There is a good view over the last part of the trekking: a steep descent to Phajoding Monastery and finally Thimphu.
Camping at Phajoding (12,100ft/3690m) is definitely worthwhile.
PHAJODING MONASTERY
Togden Pajo, a Tibetan yogi looking for a place for meditation, founded the site in the 13th century. Most of the buildings were constructed by the 9th Je Khenpo, Shakya Rinchen, in the first half of the 18th century. The 16th Je Khenpo was also involved in some of the buildings, and the king’s secretary has donated money for one of the more recent temples, built in honour of Guru Padma Sambava. Phajoding is not just one complex. Several buildings spread out over the mountainside include lhakhangs/gompas, monk quarters, numerous meditation centres, and even a guesthouse. The meditation centres may have a branch of a juniper tree outside, indicating that do not want to be disturbed. There is also a sacred cave with big stalactites during the colder month of the year. Phajoding is one of the Monasteries visited by Thimphu people for special pujas, which provide funds for the monasteries. Try to see the meditation centre which hangs on the side of cliff at 12,955ft/3950m.
DAY 6
Phajoding (12,103ft/2818m) to radio tower (9245ft/2818m) or Mothithang (8395ft/2560m)
TIME: 2-3hr
DISTANCE: 2.5miles/4km
ALTITUDE GAIN: 0FT/0m
ALTITUDE LOSS: 2860FT/872M
From Phajoding monastery there are three different trails to Thimphu. One stays high and climbs to a pass, Puma La (12,170ft/3710m). From Puma La a trail leads down to the Mothithang youth centre.
The other two trails start with the same steep descent. At 10,965ft/3343m you arrive at a big split in the trail. Straight down in a steep route past to the queen’s compound and the wooden buildings of the royal staff camp, continuing on to the Mothithang youth centre. This trail descends 250m more than the alternate route.
The other route goes left at the split and follows a gentle trail descending slowly through thick forest until Chhokhortse Gompa (9870ft/3010m) in a clearing. Just before the gompa there is a model of a hot stone bath in the ground. A steep, 200m descent leads to the radio tower, past hundreds of prayer flags put up by people from Thimphu. This is the transmission tower for Bhutan’s only TV and radio station, BBS. From here, drive down to Thimphu, passing the Thimphu Zoo, where some takins can be seen.After this drive back to hotel,overnight and dinner at the hotel.
Next day in the morning drive back to Paro airport and safe flight back home!
